Margiela, les années Hermès
Margiela, les années Hermès
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March 1998: "An unholy marriage. A wacky designer unleashed in a well-connected house. [...] Martin Margiela at Hermès. On the one hand, a highly cerebral designer, who doesn't hesitate to have his models wear fragments of deliberately unfinished garments. And on the other, a century-old saddler who's a bit of an old hand" (Sibylle Vincendon, Libération).
Indeed, when, in 1997, the young Flemish designer was called upon by Jean-Louis Dumas, Chairman of Hermès, to assume artistic direction of the ready-to-wear collections, he was already an influential avant-garde designer: a graduate of the fashion section of the Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp, he had been Jean Paul Gaultier's assistant since 1984. And in the wake of his first fashion show (1988), he founded Maison Martin Margiela.
So where does the strength of this association, which will come to an end in 2003, come from?
Hermès is no stranger to headshots or media complacency. For his part, Margiela has his own house and, like Hermès, prefers the virtues of secrecy to images, refusing photos and interviews. But above all, like Hermès, he cultivates a refined approach to clothing, pays the utmost attention to materials, including new and recycled ones; he has a taste for innovation and knows what the workshop requires in terms of patience and meticulousness.
In twelve daring collections, he created masterpieces of technicality, clarity and modernity. This book pays tribute, through images, testimonials and analysis, to this short but very rich Hermès "period", and sheds light on the interactions between one of the leading designers of this early century and the famous Parisian house with its ancestral heritage.
July 2021
French
22.70 x 29.00 cm
256 pages
ISBN: 978-2-330-10362-0
© Musée des arts décoratifs
© Actes Sud
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